Guitar Shop 101: Tips for Buying a Used Electric

During the 25 years I’ve worked on guitars, I’ve had many clients bring in a recently purchased used electric for a setup, only to discover that the axe has serious underlying problems that were not disclosed by the seller. Most guitars you find in a reputable music store have been checked out by the shop’s in-house repair team and are sold at a fair price. But in many cases, instruments acquired from online auctions, pawnshops, or flea markets are not always the “killer deal” they appear to be.

To help you avoid buying a used electric guitar that would cost more to repair than it’s worth, let’s look at some critical things you need to check before making a purchase. These are common problems that can get overlooked when you’re smitten by a flashy paint job or a cool design.

Fit and finish. The first thing most players notice on an electric guitar is the finish. Normal finish checking doesn’t detract from a used instrument’s value, but stains and discolorations do, so it’s important to inspect the paint or lacquer, which can get damaged by synthetic guitar straps or chemicals (Photo 1). Unfortunately, you can’t simply polish away such flaws if they’ve penetrated the finish. Read For More Information –


Ok, so you’ve got to admit that’s a little unusual.

What we’ve got is a tailpiece installed on this Takamine. It’s anchoring the strings which pass through the (pinless) bridge and up over the saddles.

Whatever else, it’s an inventive solution to some sort of problem.

Thing is, it’s not the best solution. The tailpiece is resting against the top of the guitar with isn’t the best for getting a good tone. Also, the guitar’s designed to have strings couple to the wraparound bridge for good transfer to the top.

Here's the reason for that weird repair. This Takamine has a seriously cracked bridge

You can see the problem this was trying to solve. The original bridge had cracked and was starting to disintegrate where the strings anchored.

Along the way, someone had installed a third bolt right in the middle to try keep it together. You can see the filler sunken in between the D and G strings at the rear or the bridge. These bridges already have a couple of bolts installed to help keep them from ripping free and flying across the room. Once this crack happened, though, no amount of bolts was going to help.

So what’s to be done? Read For More Information –

Sticky Nuts? Here is a cheap and easy fix for your guitar tuning woes.

For this to work you need a guitar with either a bone or similar material nut. It won’t work with locking trem systems like a Floyd Rose. You need to have stretched out your strings first, as new strings will of course always drift out of tuning.

Generally a guitar that goes out of tune normally has issues at the nut. You can check this by first tuning your guitar to pitch and then bend a few notes. If the guitar has gone flat or sharp on the string you bent there is a high chance the string is getting stuck in the nut. So there’s an old trick of putting some pencil lead in there (actually graphite and not lead) as this acts as a lubricant for the string, as graphite is really slippery. I have also used a Chapstick in the past to get similar results. Just apply a little with a cocktail stick in the nut grooves so it can get nice and slippery so your string won’t get stuck in the slot as you bend notes.

But here’s a better way:

  • First take some regular string and cut a short length; around 20 centimetres should be enough.
  • Fray the string by unravelling it, so that it is now all loose along its length. Keep it all together, still frayed out. It should not be a whole load of long string fibres.
  • Soak this unravelled string in Brasso (the stuff you use for polishing metal).
  • Then use this Brasso soaked string in the nut slots. One at a time place the string in the nut and use a sawing motion to rub it over the nut slots. Hold each end of the string keep the string taught as you use the sawing motion in the nuts slot. Read For More Information –

What causes Fret Buzz? … and How to Fix it!

So. You’ve got a guitar that you love. It looks, feels, and sounds great… but, some (or all) of your strings are buzzing against the frets and it’s driving you nuts. Let’s take a look at some of the common causes of fret buzz and the appropriate ways to address each one. By the way, this is just an overview and not an in-depth tutorial.

Let’s first define what “fret buzz” is in the first place. Fret buzz is the annoying sound caused by a guitar string rattling/buzzing against a fret wire when the guitar string is being plucked or played. There are three common causes of fret buzz:

  1. Frets are not level with each other (some are taller, some are shorter)
  2. String Action is too low
  3. Neck does not have enough “relief” (neck is too straight, or bowing backwards)

Note: I did not include technique as a cause of fret buzz, but it is worth mentioning because, at a certain point, the cause of fret buzz is the player and not the guitar. Basically, if the player attacks the string too aggressively on a perfectly fine guitar, fret buzz will still occur.

#1 – Frets are not level with each other

The rule is the frets on your guitar are supposed to be level with each other. That means they should all be the same height. There is an exception to this rule (upper fret “fall-away”), but I will not be getting in to that here. When the frets are not level with each other, that means some of the frets are shorter and some of the frets are taller. It’s the tall frets that the string physically comes in to contact with, resulting in fret buzz. The string does not buzz against the low frets. Pictures will probably help illustrate what I’m saying. Read For More Information –

How to Repair Binding around the Body of an Acoustic Guitar

What is Acoustic Guitar Body Binding?

Almost all acoustic guitars have some type of binding around the edges where the top and back meet the sides. Many acoustic guitars also have binding around the fretboard and peghead. Acoustic guitar binding can be made out of many different kinds of material including: various woods, plastic, or celluloid.
A “true” binding around the body of the guitar is inlayed or glued in a channel cut from the body. A router is used to cut a small channel or shelf on the edges of the guitar for the binding to sit on. The binding is then bent and shaped to fit the body and glued in place. Most of the time decretory purfling strips are usually inlayed next to the binding. Purfling strips are thin laminate pieces of wood dyed different colors.
You might ask, what is the purpose of binding on an acoustic guitar and why don’t all guitars have binding. Acoustic guitars have the edges bound to create stronger joints between the top, sides, and back of the guitar. The binding acts almost as a brace around the outside of the guitar.
It protects the fragile, grain edges of the top and back while helping attach them to the sides. Binding is important structurally and aesthetically. Your choice of binding can change the entire look of your guitar. Pearloid or celluloid binding will give the guitar a completely different look than wood binding. Solid binding also helps produce good tone. Read For More Information –

Chasing the Peter Green Tone

veryone who knows about Peter Green as a guitarist knows about his famous “PG Mod” out of phase tone. While not very well accepted by the general population of guitarists, anyone who is a fan of Peter Green is interested in the unique tone.

But, I often ask myself, “What if Peter had a typical Les Paul that didn’t have the necessary resonance and sustain needed to pull off the out of phase tone properly?” What then? Well, I suspect there would be no Peter Green out of phase tone to be chasing! Let me explain…

Having been totally into the out of phase tone since I first heard Peter play it (Merry Go ‘Round on the Dog & Dustbin album), I was able to finally have my first experience with it in 1971. A good friend of mine, Peter Montagna, was lucky enough to have a dad who was into woodworking. Somehow, Peter found out about how to get the out of phase tone by manipulating a magnet in one of the humbucking pickups. I didn’t have a Les Paul at the time (I was using an SG), so we decided it would be best to get the Peter Green tone from an actual Les Paul. So, we headed to 48th St. in Manhattan on a quest to find a Les Paul.

Of course, original 50’s Les Pauls were scarce, and I probably wouldn’t have been able to afford one anyway, but there was hope because of Gibson’s recent decision to make “real” Les Pauls again in 1968. We found one of them, a P90 Goldtop, at We Buy, where I traded my SG and some cash for the guitar. Since Peter’s dad had all the necessary equipment to route the guitar for humbuckers, that wasn’t an issue. After doing the deal at We Buy, we went across the street to Manny’s and bought a set of humbuckers. To make a long story short, when the guitar was ready, there it was – perfect Peter Green out of phase tone! I thought, “well, that was easy,” and just assumed that I could get that tone from any Les Paul going forward. That turned out to be a very bad assumption. Read For more information –


Vitamin B12 is a vital nutrient due to its effects on major functions of the body, and its ability to restore your energy. A deficiency of vitamin B12 can result in multiple health problems and cause a lack of energy in general. We will look at vitamin B12 benefits and functions, as well as symptoms of deficiency, absorption, and drug interactions.

Benefits and Functions of Vitamin B12

Blood Cell Production

Vitamin B12 is necessary for proper formation of red blood cells. When formed correctly, red blood cells are small and round, but a lack of vitamin B12 causes them to be larger and more oval and causes anemia.

Bone Health

People who have a vitamin B12 deficiency tend to have a lower than normal bone mineral density, making bones more fragile and delicate. Osteoporosis can happen as a result.

Mood and Brain Health

Vitamin B12 is important for synthesis and metabolism of serotonin, a chemical produced by your body to regulate mood. A B12 deficiency can lead to lower serotonin production and cause a depressed mood. In addition, vitamin B12 is partially responsible for the strength of the myelin sheath that surrounds nerve cells and determines how quickly messages are communicated to your brain.


Vitamin B12 is involved in the metabolism of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. When there are inadequate amounts of B12 in your system, you cannot properly convert these to restore your energy.  Read for More Information



Perhaps you are buying your first electric guitar or looking to upgrade one with some guitar parts. Here’s how we can help.

First of all, if you are a newbie you need to know the details of electric guitars. There are a lot of options to choose from as per your plan and budget. However, understanding which one is the best option is something you need to be more interested in.

Pin this image on Pinterest

So let’s start…

You must be aware of the most common terms like the fretboard, neck, bridge, and pickups. However, this is not enough to go for the right choice. You need to understand the more intricate mechanisms to get the best deal and a good bargain for yourself.

For example, let’s talk about the pickups of an electric guitar.

Single coil pickups or humbuckers.

Single coil pickups started appearing in the 1930s. They have what musicians call a crisper tone. They seem to work fine in eliminating the hum to a certain extent, but many fail in doing so if they leave the amp volume knobs turned up.

Humbuckers have two electromagnetic coils that are more effective in reducing the hum. Each coil picks up the electromagnetic interference caused by the other coil and reduces the hum to a large extent. Humbuckers also have a warmer tone compared to single coil pickups. Humbuckers are the most preferred ones. Read For More Information –

What Faber® Bridge Saddles Should I Get?


What Saddles Should I Get?

So, you’ve decided on your new bridge but now you are unsure of which type of saddle to choose. Faber offer saddles in a range of materials:

• Nickel Plated Brass
• Aged Nickel Plated Brass
• Natural Brass
• Aged Natural Brass
• Titanium

All Faber bridge saddles are direct replacement parts and will fit any Faber bridge with removable saddles except for the Wraptonate model. All saddles are sold in packs of 3. 2 packs will be needed to re-saddle an entire bridge, each pack of 3 saddles includes the retaining clips. Retaining clips and bridge saddle screws are also available separately if replacements are required.


Notched Vs. Unnotched

All Faber bridges come pre-installed with notched saddles. This means you will be able to install your new bridge on your guitar and play away. The notches are considered “starter” notches and are dead center on the saddle. This means, they will be perfectly functional for your plain strings, however, you may wish to widen these with a small file if you want the wound strings to sit deeper in the saddle. The wound strings will still sit perfectly on the bridge without this widening taking place, but if you use a heavy gauge of string it’s something you may consider doing.


Read More:

Buy Guitar Neck Screw Or Guitar Saddle Screw At Faber USA

Replacement guitar bridge saddles, with or without starter notches, and replacement bridge saddle screws. Note: These parts will only fit Faber® bridges, except Faber® WRAPTONATE™.Nickel Plated Saddles standard on all nickel plated bridges. Unplated natural brass saddles on all gloss or aged nickel plated bridges. There is no tone difference between nickel plated brass and natural brass. Choose for cosmetic preference.
Natural Brass Saddles optional on nickel plated bridges. There is no tone difference between natural brass and nickel plated brass. Choose for cosmetic preference. Gloss and Aged Gold bridges are standard with polished brass saddles which match the gloss gold bridge finish. Non pre-notched natural brass are unpolished. Nickel plated brass saddles unavailable on gloss or aged gold bridges.

HYBRIDge™ Option – a Faber® Exclusive! Adds 3 titanium saddles for the wound E-A-D strings, resulting in a much clearer tone, eliminating any muddiness often heard from the wound strings. Choose from 3 Titanium/3 Nickel Plated (nickel plated bridges only), or 3 Titanium/3 Natural Brass. Image shows the effect with 3 Titanium and 3 Natural Brass Saddles. Recommended for ALL guitars!
Titanium saddles provide a tighter, brighter tone. Recommended for guitars that are a little too dark sounding on all strings. For guitars having a naturally normal to bright tone with the current bridge all titanium is not recommended, as an already bright sounding guitar may sound TOO bright on the plain strings. For the latter, we recommend the HYBRIDge™, as that configuration will benefit any guitar.

Read More –